The environment at this new and instantly popular restaurant has a decidedly old fashioned, library vibe. The walls are adorned with cinema posters and there’s a sprinkling of old telephones, vintage lamps and pottery around. We had to wait 20 minutes for a table due to the masses of fans Dianping has helped draw, but once seated, the entire transaction from ordering to after-dinner coffee took an hour, which is testament to their service. This is a fun dining experience with simple, homestyle fare and prices to match.

We enjoyed the cold fried fish braised in a sweet and savory brown sauce (RMB16)—it went down like candy. Another sugary treat is the grandma-style fried rice cake (RMB16). The big circles of cake are deep-fried and given a chewiness much like that of Japanese mochi and a crunchy golden shell perfect for dipping in brown sugar syrup. The clam meat with green pepper (RMB27) comes in a giant bowl of spicy and oily broth flavored with bright green chili and Sichuan peppercorn, and the addition of wood ear mushrooms and cucumbers make for a fun combination of flavor and texture.

Fans of stinky tofu (RMB15) will like the soft texture and the thin, crisp skin that elevates the dish here from what you get most other places. Similarly tasty is braised duck with beer (RMB30) as the beer, oil, ginger, red chili, green onion and garlic infuse the tender bird with a piquant aroma and taste. Sautéeing vegetables with scrap tallow (RMB13) result in pleasantly strong umami flavor in the chopped greens, but the ’90s mashed potatoes (RMB16) are awful. Imagine cooking up boxed potatoes and topping them with a gloopy sweet and sour ketchup-based sauce.

One misstep in an otherwise great meal means we’ll happily return to the past at ’70s.

Our rating: 4/5

DETAILS

What: 70s' Restaurant 70后饭吧

Where: 1217 Changde Lu 常德路1217号

Tel: 6040-2808

City Weekend is the only online magazine in Shanghai to review restaurants according to a transparent process vetted by local food & beverage professionals. Check our Restaurant Review Process here.